Enjoy Wine in Moderation for Magic in Excess
- Sally
- 2 hours ago
- 5 min read
We seem to be living in an era where total abstention from alcohol is increasingly promoted as the ultimate marker of health and happiness, and where any indulgence is served with a side dish or guilt or shame. Of course, as a wine producer, I find myself pushing back against that narrative pretty strongly. Not simply because of my chosen (semi)retirement project of creating a winery, but because I sincerely believe in enjoying wine as a thoughtful, celebratory choice.
When Brit Award winner Olivia Dean sings, “Maybe it’s the magic in the wine[i]”, it conjures up an image of connection and pleasure - not excess, but atmosphere and presence. Rather than promoting abstinence as the only virtuous choice, perhaps we can rediscover the magic in mindful enjoyment and get back to backing moderation. ‘Moderation in all things’ has been the go-to advice for generations and for many things in life ever since Aristotle aired his philosophy called the Golden Mean: the idea that virtue lies between two extremes. [ii]
We know consumption has declined over the last decades with such changes as a decrease in lunchtime drinking (in particular during the work week) and the legislation on drink driving – both of which I support. But if we believe the headlines in the drinks trade and general press, then the end of wine is nigh: ‘Gen Z are not drinking’, ‘Abstention periods are becoming popular and applauded’, ‘No and Lo ‘ as a category is taking over from alcoholic drinks because of health concerns while economic pressure and alcohol duties in certain markets are making it less attractive or unaffordable. In this context, and as a wine producer making wine in a region where climate change and viticulture progress give us regular battles with alcohol levels (the average in Bordeaux has risen 1.5%-2%abv in just 20 years) it is all bad news – or is it?
I have always talked and lived moderation in alcohol. Personally, I have never drunk a lot (after several bad hangovers in my youth) and even less after menopause. With age I have appreciated more and more, the complexity of flavours in a well-made wine whether enjoying it with a meal or on its own. And I have many memories from travels to wineries in far flung countries that involve as much culture, history and nature related to its production as glasses of wine consumed.
But to enjoy wine in moderation seems to have become a mantra which is out-of date and rejected not only by powers that be (per the World Health Organisation statement in 2022 that no level of alcohol is safe) but also by many in celebrity circles who may have had addiction issues in the past and promote being totally sober as the only path to wellness and true happiness. On social media and in podcasts promoting wellbeing, there are enough negative messages to make even the most devoted wine lover feel guilty for enjoying a glass. To make things worse, these messages are often peppered by factually incorrect information to further demonise the devil drink. (See my blog on EU labelling for some interesting facts). Add to this, differing definitions of what moderation actually is!
But is moderation as unfashionable as we are made to think? I am glad to say that maybe it is not according to research from the IWSR[iii] reported by two women in the drinks community whom I respect greatly for their clear and objective data-backed analysis of what is really going on. A recent episode of the podcast ‘A Question of Drinks’[iv] by Lulie Halstead and Felicity Carter delves into this topic. The upshot is that contrary to many of those headlines, consumption may be falling but full abstention is not increasing.
In summary, we are drinking less on fewer occasions and the long abstention periods (think Dry January) are decreasing - meaning we are drinking in moderation! I have always subscribed to the recommendation: ’Drink less and drink better’. After all, I make wine that I want folks to appreciate and enjoy rather than glug without tasting. I would much prefer fans of Château George 7 wines treat themselves to a lovely bottle of my top wine, OR de GeORge Royal Reserve and spread it over a couple of nights and even use it as an excuse to make a special dinner to pair with it. And while we are on data points, with reference to Gen Z, research highlighted in the same podcast episode confirms that the percentage of their disposable income spent on alcohol is the same as other groups, they just happen to have lower incomes which results in lower actual spend.
The essence of moderate drinking lies not just in the act itself but in the company it keeps.
The Mediterranean diet, hailed as the healthiest in the world, brings together seasonal fresh fruit and vegetables; olive oil, local fish and yes, a moderate amount of red wine (in my experience of living in the Med).
Imagine a rustic table laden with an array of seasonal dishes, laughter and chatter lingering in the air, the pop of a cork and the pouring of wine into glasses passed around and raised to toast the moment shared. It is a scene stereotypically representing the Mediterranean lifestyle and a testament to the belief that communal enjoyment fosters well-being. The balance of moderate consumption over a meal and conversation shared is where more magic lies.
How does a winemaker handle wine on tap (literally) and the temptation to pop the cork or drain a bottle at the end of a hard day? My rule is never to drink to commiserate - there is far too much portrayal of wine as a prop in moments of stress in dramatic moments of films. Plus, I stick to a simple rule: no solo sipping. It’s in the shared moments, the clinking of glasses with friends and family that I find the real enchantment of wine.
My personal commitment to never drinking alone isn’t a rigid rule due to over consumption, but a conscious choice to ensure that my sips are part of a shared celebration. Wine, when accompanied by laughter and conversation, transforms into a cup of connection and enhances the flavour of life.
The ritual of celebration with wine extends beyond the Mediterranean. Cultures worldwide have their own variations of tasting, raising glasses together to mark achievements or landmark dates, forge connections, or simply revel in the joy of being together. It is a language that goes beyond borders and fosters unity.
I am happy with my approach to moderation, and while I believe very strongly in wine for celebration not commiseration, I respect that others may define their own ‘celebration’ boundaries differently to me. Let’s not lose the magic of the wine and let’s raise a glass to celebrate excessively……. Whatever our personal definition of moderation may be.
[i] From her song Dive, 2023
[ii] Found in Nicomachean Ethics
[iv] Episode 24, 28th January 2026
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To contact me please email: sally@chateaugeorge7.com